How Catanduanes Earned Its Place Among My Favorite Philippine Destinations

 

Often mentioned last when one converses about the Bicol region, the province of Catanduanes revealed itself with such unexpected surprise that it swiftly secured a place among my top five favorite provinces in the Philippines. Its unassuming surf culture, endless rolling hills unfolding into sweeping Pacific Ocean views, and surreal rock formations create a landscape both rugged and breathtaking. Mornings reveal scenic peaks wrapped in a sea of clouds, while waterfalls, hidden lagoons, and a winding coastline of powdery white sand complete the island’s charm.

Come for the scenery, go home happy

Rightfully Nicknamed the Happy Island

Located on the easternmost edge of the Bicol region, Catanduanes carries a reputation as a perennial target for typhoons. But that perception isn’t entirely accurate. The province frequently appears in weather reports not because every storm barrels through the island, but because it hosts one of PAGASA’s key weather stations.

Massive rocks shields Tuwad Tuwadan lagoon from the wild swells of the Pacific Ocean

The PAGASA Weather Station in Bato, a critical radar facility equipped with a modern meteorological system, puts the province as a reference point whenever a typhoon enters the Philippine Area of Responsibility. Its strategic location makes it one of the country’s primary hubs for tracking typhoons — some of which, but not all, pass directly through the province.

Lobsters and other seafood are common on the island

The true origins of Catanduanes’ moniker, the “Happy Island,” remain something of a mystery. Some say it began as nothing more than a slogan printed on a T-shirt, one that resonated so deeply, it grew into an identity. But the nickname fits. Life here moves at a measured rhythm, shaped by the locals’ easygoing spirit and a deep connection to nature. Surrounded by abundant green landscapes, the people of Catanduanes embrace a lifestyle where work, family, and community intertwine seamlessly. This infectious optimism extends beyond the locals; travelers, too, are welcomed with the warmth of an island that lives up to its name.

A Stunning Reel of Catanduanes’ Picture-Perfect Landscapes

A few visits to the so-called Happy Island, spanning both pre- and post-pandemic years, prompted reflections on my first trip while adding new layers of appreciation to my most recent experience. Each trip is a reminder of why Catanduanes remains one of my favorite places in the Philippines. And why not? Here, the countryside spills into quiet valleys, mountains stand watch over curving coastal roads, and random detours lead to postcard-worthy views.

Jumping for joy at Cagnipa Rolling Hills

The island is a keeper of natural wonders. Listing them all would take a 5,000-word article, but here are a few of my favorite spots to get you started.

A section of the surfing spot in Puraran beach

For decades, Puraran Beach in the town of Baras has been a quiet sanctuary for hardcore surfers, from here and abroad, drawn by the powerful swells rolling in from the vast Pacific Ocean. But beyond the surfing, there is a deeper appeal; a relaxed atmosphere that seeps into the air, where time seems to slow in tempo with the currents.

Surfers at Puraran Beach

Framed by striking rock formations and depths of blue, Puraran’s stretch of coastline offers more than just waves. A handful of modest, unobtrusive accommodations now blend seamlessly into the beach setting, welcoming visitors seeking a taste of the unhurried island life that has long defined this part of Catanduanes.

Counting waves at Binurong Point

Fancy a short and satisfying hike? Binurong Point, also in Baras, offers a perfect escape. The short, muddy trail (if it rains the previous night) leads to a breathtaking finale, where rolling hills, sharp rock formations, and sheer cliffs meet the rhythmic crash of the Pacific Ocean’s waves. The view is already Instagrammable, but the vast expanse of lush, green grass only elevates the scene, transforming it into a visual symphony.

The size of Binurong Point as captured by a drone camera

Wandering the hilltop, it’s easy to slip into a kind of trance, and lost in the moment. Before you know it, you might find yourself skipping barefooted over the soft grass.

The grass is green and the views are pretty

With five or six viewpoints scattered across the hilltop, each one offers a new perspective, pulling you from one cinematic scene to the next. For the most mesmerizing experience, it’s best to visit at sunrise, when the sun’s golden light bathes the mountains in a soft glow, adding another layer of awe to this already extraordinary place.

The upper lagoon in Poseidon Rock

As a child of the ’80s, I grew up watching The Blue Lagoon, that iconic Brooke Shields film that set the bar impossibly high for what a lagoon should be. In my mind, a lagoon had to be an idyllic, secluded paradise; no other word for it but beautiful.

On a break from swimming at one of the two lagoons in Poseidon Rock

The lagoons we explored in Catanduanes not only met but also surpassed my initial expectations. By definition, a lagoon is a body of water separated from a bigger one or formed naturally; in this case, sea water that spilled from the Pacific Ocean and overflowed into a natural pool encircled by coral stones and other rock formations.

Chill Carabao

In the town of Bato, there hides an intriguing formation known as Poseidon Rock, where nature has carved twin lagoons beneath its towering boulders. An archway, worn smooth by time, creates a tidal pool, its crystal-clear waters inviting both swimmers and snorkelers to soak underwater or do some short swimming laps. The first one is perched higher within the rock formation, while the second, only a few steps below, rests almost level with the sea, its waters blending seamlessly with the blue horizon.

Tuwad Tuwadan lagoon as it appear from the top

In the town of Pandan, a double-dose of natural wonders unfold in succession. The Cagnipa Rolling Hills, a stretch of uneven terrain, invites a short, rewarding hike through fields where cows and carabaos roam freely, and the grass sways to the strong breeze. Each step brings forth a pretty panorama, leading to another lagoon.

Latik is a rice cake made with malagkit and malunggay extract and eaten with coconut milk sauce. Impling's Latik is the most popular latik maker in the province.

After you’ve taken enough photographs of the hills, another short hike continues along a narrow trail, which opens to a set of man-made stone stairs descending to the Tuwad-Tuwadan Lagoon. Here, the image of the massive rock boulders reveals itself like a wound, an exposed cut where the tidal pool forms and widens into a tadpole-shaped one, its waters shielded from the ocean by jagged rock formations shaped over millennia by the relentless waves.

Catanduanes is the Happy Island

Barefoot across the soft, grassy knoll of Cagnipa, and later submerged in the lagoon's pristine waters, I found myself caught between awe and gratitude. To witness such unspoiled beauty, to be in the presence of nature’s quiet, enduring power, felt like a blessing, an invitation to pause and truly enjoy the gift of Mother Nature.

Palumbanes Island, up ahead

On the northern tip of Catanduanes lies the remote group of islands known as Palumbanes, located in the town of Caramoran. A motorboat ride of about an hour brings you to this peaceful retreat, where beach junkies can indulge in the turquoise waters and powdery white sand, all while enjoying vibrant coral reefs and abundant marine life in near solitude. Whether you choose to anchor at Parongpong, Tignob, or Calabagio Island—or visit all three—you’re guaranteed to satisfy your beach fix in the most serene of settings.

Paraiso ni Honesto

What sets Catanduanes apart, is the freedom of the open road. You don’t need a guidebook here; just pull over wherever you feel like it, and you’ll find beauty waiting.

The view of the sea at Paraiso ni Honesto

Take, for example, our lunch stop at Paraiso ni Honesto. A modest resort, tucked away atop a hill, where the real treat wasn’t just the food. What made this stop unforgettable was the view—Pacific Ocean stretching out endlessly before us. Coupled with the cool gust that was just right, the kind that makes you want to close your eyes and drift off, you’ll really experience what island living is all about.

Sea of clouds as seen from Summit View Park

For a different kind of mountain views, we woke up early one morning and made our way to Summit View Park in Viga just before sunrise. There, we enjoyed a simple breakfast of latik, a popular kakanin in Catanduanes, paired with freshly brewed coffee, all while surrounded by a slowly-forming sea of clouds.

Just a few of the many varieties of abaca products of Catanduanes

Catanduanes has earned its reputation as the Abaca Capital of the Philippines (and an official declaration by law, the Republic Act No. 11700), and it’s easy to see why. With over 13,000 farmers tending to more than 30,000 hectares of abaca plantations, the industry provides a vital livelihood for countless locals. Many of these farmers are also skilled in abaca weaving, producing a variety of products, from rags and baskets to chairs, carpets, table runners, and pouches. We had the chance to visit the Calolbon Abaca Crafts and Carpets Enterprise in the town of San Andres, where the tradition of abaca weaving is kept alive and puts the island on the map through the presence of its various creations in the market worldwide.

A person contemplates swimming in the cold and refreshing waters of Maribina Falls

Completing this brief list of notable attractions in Catanduanes is the Maribina Falls, the only waterfall I've so far visited on the island. Our guide told us that there are more waterfalls waiting to be discovered when we return to the island. Situated in the municipality of Bato, the falls are easily accessible by car, with parking conveniently available on-site. The 6-meter-high waterfall flows into a series of crystal-clear pools, inviting visitors to take a refreshing swim.

The St. John the Baptist Church or Bato Church

No visit to Bato would be complete without a stop at the St. John the Baptist Church, the oldest church in Catanduanes, nearly 200 years old. Constructed on an elevated spot near the river, the church overlooks the town below, making it not only a historical church to say a prayer inside but also a nice place to sit and observe local life.

Mayon Volcano is seen from Catanduanes on a clear day

Catanduanes is a place that lingers long after you leave, with its slow pace, natural beauty, and genuine charm staying with you. Almost in every town or island, there’s always a chance for new adventures, an opportunity to connect with nature, and a time to pause.

The Tourism Promotions Board (TPB) of the Philippines conducted a three-day Local Tourism and Marketing Workshop among Tourism Officers from all over Bicol Region

The island simply invite exploration, while its warm-hearted locals embody the island's nickname, "the Happy Island." Whether you're here for the surfing, the serenity, or simply to wander, Catanduanes offers an unforgettable experience that will leave you wanting to return over and over again.