Davao del Sur was
one of the first provinces in Mindanao I visited. In 2009, I flew to Davao City
with my then-girlfriend, Marianne. From there, we made our way to Camp Sabros,
an outdoor retreat in Kapatagan, Digos City, known at the time for having one
of the longest zip lines in the country, an 800-meter ride above the treetops.
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| Posing with members of the Bagobo-Tagabawa community in Sta Cruz, Davao del Sur |
On this return trip, nostalgia is inevitable—not about a failed relationship, but about my early years of travel. This time, however, the focus was different. Instead of simply taking in the landscapes, we explored the province’s cultural heritage. Doing so, I learned about traditional crafts, music, and dance, traditions that have been passed down through generations and that today remain a vital part of the region’s identity.
Discovering
Heritage in the Communities
Not wasting any
time, we first set out on a community where cultural bearers are in play to
preserve the culture of the Bagobo-Tagabawa community.
We had lunch in their
community of Sta. Cruz, Davao del Sur, where history, tradition, and a deep
reverence for Apo Sandawa, their original name for Mount Apo, shape daily life.
As one of the three dialectical groups of the Bagobo people, the Bagobo-Tagabawa of Davao del Sur are a proud
indigenous group known for their rich traditions, intricate weaving, and deep
spiritual connection to nature. Living in the foothills of Mount Apo, they keep
age-old rituals, colorful beadwork, and rhythmic music. They have long called
these foothills home, where they persevere to preserve their customs within
their ancestral domain.
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| The Bagobo-Tagabawa community here in Sta Cruz also has their own school of living tradition |
The chieftain’s
wife welcomed us warmly, sharing that the community takes pride in hosting
visitors. To mark the occasion, they performed traditional dances which acts
out expressions of gratitude for a bountiful harvest. The meal that followed
was just as memorable: chicken, tenderized inside bamboo, accompanied by taro
cooked in coconut milk, steamed sayote tops, and grilled fish.
At Humbled by
Nature Farm in Matanao, the B’laan people welcomed us with graceful
traditional dances and hauntingly beautiful chants—expressions of an olden
culture still very much alive.
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| Members of the B'laan community shows us their traditional clothing against a scenic backdrop |
The B’laan, neighbors to the T’boli, inhabit the rugged landscapes near Lake Sebu and the T’boli municipalities of South Cotabato, stretching through Sarangani, General Santos, southeastern Davao, and the shores of Lake Buluan in North Cotabato.
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| One of the weavers carrying the legacy of the late Salinta Monon |
Known for their masterful brasswork, intricate beadwork, and the revered tabih
weave, their artistry reflects a deep cultural lineage. Their attire is usually
adorned with embroidered garments decorated with elaborate beads. The women, in
particular, wear heavy brass belts, their dangling tassels tipped with tiny
bells, announcing their presence long before they arrive.
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| A bust of GAMABA Awardee Salinta Monon |
Further into Davao
del Sur, in the town of Bansalan, we visited the home of the late Salinta
Monon (1920–2009), a revered Bagobo-Tagabawa master weaver and a 1998
recipient of the Gawad sa Manlilikha ng Bayan (GAMABA), or National Living
Treasure Award. For most of her 89 years, Monon devoted herself to the
meticulous art of weaving Inabal, the traditional Bagobo-Tagabawa textile,
ensuring that her knowledge was passed down to younger generations.
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| Salinta Monon's first student Estela Barra |
Today, her legacy
endures. Near her old home, the community is establishing a weaving center,
where artisans like Estela Barra, Monon’s first student, continue the intricate
process of crafting Inabal from abaca fibers. They also demonstrate the
traditional way of wearing the Tangkulo, a scarf that serves as both an
adornment and a symbol of leadership among the Bagobo-Tagabawa.
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| Tangkulo |
Through dedication
and collective effort, the weavers of Bansalan are keeping Monon’s artistry
alive, ensuring that the vibrant threads of their culture remain unbroken,
woven into the future just as they have been for generations.
Relishing the Cold
Setting of the Kapatagan Highlands
Beyond the
culture-rich experiences that defined our journey, we found ourselves drawn to
the lush farmlands that fuel the local flavors of this region. Strawberries,
coffee, and an array of fruits and vegetables flourished in abundance.
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| Coffee berries awaiting harvest |
But first, coffee.
Or coffee farm I must say. After our community visits, we hurried off to Balutakay Coffee Farmers Association
(BACOFA) in Bansalan. Over a rich, aromatic brew, we uncovered the
transformative power of coffee, how these farmers are shaping lives and
elevating coffee experiences worldwide with their distinctive blends.
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| A young lady from the Bagobo community shows off the peanut butter fruit |
At Lao
Integrated Farm, I was reminded once again that random discoveries fuels
every journey, and this time, it came in the form of an unexpected delicacy:
the Peanut Butter fruit. True to its name, its taste was strikingly reminiscent
of peanut butter. This farm, a sustainable organic demo site in Bansalan, Digos
City, stands as a testament to innovation. Its founder, Benjamin Lao,
recognized as a "scientist-farmer" by the Department of Science and
Technology, has turned barren land into a thriving paradise. The farm's
workforce is largely composed of members of the Bagobo community, with many of
their children benefiting as scholars of the farm, ensuring that sustainability
extends beyond agriculture into education and opportunity.
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| Some Bali-inspired structure at Sir Ped's Coffee |
The caffeine trail
continued to Sir Ped’s Coffee, a perfectly perched coffee shop that
pairs its brews with breathtaking views of the province’s mountain ranges.
Every sip here enriches the flavor of the coffee with the cool climate of the
place.
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| Cacti overload |
Our planned ascent
to Mt. Apo was thwarted by erratic weather, but the foothills of Apo Sandawa in
Bansalan had no shortage of scenic alternatives. A stop at Erry Cactus Farm
and Adenium introduced us to a stunning collection of cacti and adeniums
in a riot of colors. While my botanical expertise extends only as far as
knowing that a cactus plant have thorny spines, I could easily see plant
enthusiasts going crazy in this cacti dreamland.
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| The picturesque viewing platform at Berries Farm Cabin & Restaurant |
At The Berries
Farm Cabin & Restaurant in Bansalan, the cool mist added a touch of
magic to our berry-picking experience. Strawberries, mulberries, and
raspberries ripened under the foggy embrace of the highlands, making every
handful of fruit feel like coveted pickings.
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| Chuck Berry and his band of berries |
As we climbed
higher into Kapatagan in Digos City, a brief pause at the fog-laden Lake
Mirror, also called Lake Cometa, offered a moment of stillness, and a
chance to fly my drone camera. The lake’s glassy surface mirrored the shifting
skies and the elusive silhouette of Mt. Apo’s cloud-veiled summit.
Further along, Jardin
de Señorita and Haven’s Dew provided Instagrammable backdrops with
bursts of floral beauty and iconic landmarks—the Eiffel Tower, the Merlion, a
windmill, an old Volkswagen car and a telephone booth—all waiting to be framed
into picture-perfect memories.
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| View of Mount Apo from Camp Sabros |
For our stay in the
highlands, we split our time between two mountain resorts. At Camp Sabros,
adventure reigned supreme as we soared over the landscape on a dual zipline and
rumbled through rugged terrain in a 4x4, all while keeping our eyes locked on
the imposing peak of Mt. Apo. Meanwhile, Montefrio Garden Resort
welcomed us with mist-kissed mornings and a pace of life that encouraged just
chilling in the cold. Between buffet feasts and bottomless cups of coffee, the
mountain air carried an undeniable charm, one that made the idea of ever
leaving feel like a distant thought.
Overall, my return
trip to Davao Del Sur not only evoked memories of Camp Sabros and the green
countryside and mountain ranges I vividly recall. It also given me a chance to
unearth the rich local culture that thrives beneath the province’s stunning
natural landscapes, culture that, to this day, shapes the identity of its
people in ways both insightful and profound.
This article first appeared on my #KulturaTrips column on BusinessMirror
