Seated
on a mat laid over the cool sprawl of lawn of MiraNila, a heritage house and
events place in Quezon City which now holds outdoor film showings and a house
tour as part of its offerings, I stretched my legs, letting my sock-covered toes
press into the softness of the earth. Overhead, the night shifted in slow,
deliberate movements, with the nighttime skies parting just enough to unveil a
waxing crescent moon. On the huge screen set up on MiraNila’s spacious front
yard, Greta Lee’s Nora leads Teo Yoo’s Hae Sung through the bustling streets of
New York City in Past Lives—a film driven by the weight of life’s what-ifs.
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| Facade of MiraNila |
All
of a sudden, I noticed how that particular moment, charged with the same
longing romance flickering across the screen, extended beyond fiction. Around
me, couples leaned into each other, their faces illuminated by the glow of the
film, and transfixed into each scene.
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| The outdoor film screening set-up |
As
I turn my head even more, I catch the sight of the MiraNila house, its pre-war
façade aglow, its elegant architectural patterns confirming the romantic sentiment
of the evening.
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| The small hotel now known as MiraNamin is also located inside the MiraNila property |
Built
in the 1920s, the ancestral house has long stood as a silent keeper of stories,
but tonight, it was something more; a gathering place, a stage for quiet
intimacy, where time momentarily slowed, and beneath the stars, strangers, lovers,
history enthusiasts and movie buffs alike found themselves suspended between
the unfolding fictional story on the screen and the real-life stories of
MiraNila behind them.
The Benitez Family's MiraNila Heritage House
Most
ancestral homes, particularly those belonging to the country’s old elite, are
commonly named after the owners’ surnames, a lasting reminder of generations of
wealth, power, and history. MiraNila, however, is an exception. Though built
and owned by Conrado and Francisca Benitez—renowned educators and community
leaders—the house did not bore their name. Instead, it was coined from a moment
of alarm.
 |
| Petty Benitez-Johannot in the middle of her story-telling |
Sometime
in the 1930s, the couple’s daughter, Helena, spotted a fire raging out in the
direction of Manila. Caught in the urgency of she was witnessing from the
home’s upper floor window, she cried out, “Mira, Manila!”, which translates in Spanish
to “Look, Manila!”
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| Inside the ground floor of MiraNila Heritage House |
The
fire, even if it turned out limited to only scorching the then Ateneo de Manila
campus in Intramuros, Helena’s words lingered, imprinting themselves onto the
house enough to become its name.
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| The window where Helena Benitez saw the fire from Manila |
Located
near Cubao along Mariposa Street that intersects EDSA, the MiraNila was
declared by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines as a Heritage
House in 2011, one of only two houses declared as such in Metro Manila, the
other being the Lichauco House in Santa Ana, Manila.
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| The 1904 Steinway & Sons rare piano model that took a year and a half to restore |
The
original owners Conrado Francia Benitez and his wife Francisca Tirona Benitez
first managed its construction in 1929 following an architectural style
prevalent in the Art Deco movement mainly the California Mission Revival. The property
also houses the Gallery MiraNila by the Blue Leaf, an events space nestled
within the garden, and a small boutique hotel formerly operated by the Henry
group of hotels but has been rebranded into MiraNila's own hotel brand called MiraNamin.
From Ancestral Home to Cultural Landmark: Exploring MiraNila's 90-Year History
MiraNila
is not just a historic home; it is a repository of a family’s far-reaching
legacy that is woven into the broader narrative of Manila’s past. Original
owner Conrado Benitez, a distinguished statesman, played a role in drafting the
1935 Philippine Constitution and served as the first dean of the University of
the Philippines College of Business Administration. His brother, Francisco, was
equally influential in academia as the founding dean of the university’s
College of Education.
.jpg "rare portrait painting of Macario Vitalis (he is known to specialize in seascapes and landscapes)") |
| rare portrait painting of Macario Vitalis (he is known to specialize in seascapes and landscapes) |
But
it was the women of the Benitez family who left an indelible mark of their own.
Conrado’s wife, Francisca Tirona Benitez, was a trailblazer in education,
co-founding the Philippine Women’s University. Daughter, Helena, carried this
legacy forward, leading PWU while carving her own path in public service as a Senator
from 1967 to 1972. She was not just an educator or a lawmaker; she was a also cultural
advocate, founding the Bayanihan Dance Company, which would go on to bring
Philippine folk dance to the world stage.
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| One of the few Fernando Amorsolo painting displayed in the house |
During
its early years, MiraNila hosted some of the country’s most prominent figures,
including President Manuel Quezon and Chief Justice Jose Abad Santos, and even following
the war, General Douglas MacArthur US President Dwight D. Eisenhower also
became guests.
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| Dining Chairs with authentic Presidential Seals |
But
its history also includes a darker chapter. MiraNila, once a site of political
and social events, became a wartime outpost. For years, the mansion’s gardener
worked on the property, trusted by the Benitez family. When World War II
reached the Philippines, he revealed himself as a lieutenant in the Imperial
Japanese Army ordering the family to vacate the house, announcing that Japanese
forces would take over.
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| Inside one of the rooms on the 2nd floor |
After
the liberation of Manila in 1945, the Benitez family returned to MiraNila to
find it astonishingly intact, spared from the heavy bombardment that had
leveled much of the city. But the mansion’s survival came with a chilling
discovery. Over the years, more than 70 landmines were found hidden across the
property. Yet, in a fortunate twist of fate, not a single one detonated.
Opening
Doors to the Past: Public Tours and Events at MiraNila
"This
piano is the same one Cecile Licad's mom, who used to be our neighbor, uses to
teach us morning piano lessons", Petty Benitez-Johannot tells us as she
leads a tour inside MiraNila House. The piano, a 1904 Steinway & Sons rare
model took a year and a half to restore according to Petty.
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| Old family photographs help paint another layer of the Benitez family history |
Petty—or
Purissima Benitez-Johannot—is the niece of Helena Benitez, she serves as the
estate’s archivist and curator, as well as the president of the Benitez-Tirona
MiraNila Foundation (BTMNF). Her role extends beyond preservation; she is also
the house’s storyteller, guiding visitors through its layered history.
 |
| Conrado Benitez was one of the drafters of the 1935 Contitution |
“Following
the war, thanks to our family’s collective interest in art and literature, the
house has amassed thousands of artifacts,” she tells us, a group of fewer than
fifteen who comprises MiraNila’s first batch of guests that afternoon.
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| Religious items on display at one of the rooms in MiraNila |
Petty
Benitez-Johannot describes MiraNila as more than just a family home—it is a
carefully preserved archive of history and culture. The house holds a
collection of over 4,500 books, alongside more than 2,000 artifacts gathered
from the family’s travels around the world and obsession with literature and
art. Its rooms are filled with original furniture, old photographs, historical
documents and artwork, as well as an extensive assemblage of Asian ceramics and
earthenware.
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| Another room in the house |
Over
the course of an hour, Petty leads us through the house’s many rooms, pausing
before select pieces to share their stories. Among the highlights are paintings
by Macario Vitalis and Fernando Amorsolo, as well as works by his brother
Pablo, Raul Lebajo, and other celebrated Filipino artists.
As
part of its conservation efforts, the Benitez-Tirona MiraNila Foundation
(BTMNF) is working to introduce MiraNila to a wider audience, particularly
younger generations. To do this, it has begun hosting events such as concerts
and film screenings, including the outdoor movie night held on the day of my
visit.
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| Old photographs accompanied with informative captions |
I
was surprised to see almost a hundred attendees, many from the Gen Z crowd,
gathered for a double screening of Gitling, a Cinemalaya entry directed
by Jopy Arnaldo, and Past Lives, the Oscar-nominated film by Celine
Song. Before the screenings, guests also took part in a guided tour of the
house, exploring its history and collections.
As
Past Lives reached its aching conclusion, the audience watches Greta
Lee’s Nora walks back to her apartment, leaving the possibility of a life with
Hae Sung to exist only in some parallel universe. I found myself gathering my
things, still caught in the film’s heavy emotional ending. As I turned toward
MiraNila, I saw its yellow-lit facade glow softly against the night.
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| The crowd visibly enjoyed the experience that night |
I
thought about the lives that had once moved through this house, the stories
Petty Benitez-Johannot had shared with us earlier in the afternoon. I wonder
about over the grand receptions, the wartime disruptions, and the lawmakers,
educators, officers, and artists who had graced MiraNila as guests. Could a
film be made about the Benitez family? The drama was certainly there: history,
politics, art.
I
am certain that MiraNila, with its elegant, timeworn charm, would provide a
striking backdrop. On-screen or off, it is a house that holds stories, waiting
for those curious enough to look closer and eavesdrop on what its walls are
telling about.
MiraNila
is located at 26 Mariposa St., Brgy Bagong Lipunan, Quezon City.
For
tour and special events inquiries, please contact (+632) 8722-0243, (+63)
945-4876827 or email HelenaZBenitez@gmail.com
This article first appeared on Rappler
