I first visited Coron in August of 2009 in what was the peak moments of my last relationship. Not soon after, the whole thing crumbled but the memories of the place remained fond in my mind–unhinged by life's untimely jab. Coron however, became one of my favorites among the places I've been to so far. It was a popular 'touristy' place but it does not matter as there's something about the green waters, blue skies, and the laid back seaside town that endeared to me.
When my friend Anne pitched the idea of traveling to Coron I immediately said "oi oi oi". In no time, we were on a plane to Busuanga along with her former Pfizer colleagues Grace, Ana and Jen. We rented a boat captained by the friendly boatmen Fredo and Sonny. Like their "Godfather" namesakes, we cruised the sea like gangsters not looking for a drive-by hit but a sensation of getting visually high. We were not disappointed.
Similar to my first time here, the places we went to on our first day consist of islands included in the "Coron loop" tour. It includes: Banol Beach, Kayangan Lake, Siete Picados, Twin lagoon and a few other snorkeling and shipwreck sites.
For three days, we hopped from one island to the next to the point that one could get seasick–but who cares? There was never a dull moment especially graced by the magnificent surrounding scenery. From limestone cliffs, rocky islet, mountain formations, the blue skies and the sometimes blue sometimes green reflection of the water all completes a postcard-like image wherever you stare. It was like God or some other higher being spent a long time beautifying the landscape of this place.
The only thing that annoys us was the presence of "entrance fees" on each of the places we visited. We don't mind paying for it in one go. It's inconvenient when you're all wet and have to reach out for your wallet on your bag to get your money. Our boatman says it is because the islands around the archipelago are owned by local residents belonging to the Tagbanua tribe - the earliest settlers of Coron, Palawan. Since the "ancestral domain" law was passed they have earned their right to be financially compensated as part of the tourism rewards of the province. I agree to that.
Our boatman also said that the local government is working to ease the burden by setting up a one stop payment center at the town hall where visitors would just pay 500-600 pesos for the entrance fee to every islands and coral gardens around Coron, Palawan. They also plan to create a system where the money can be easily traced and allocated to where it should go–like free hospitalization for the elderly and scholarships for the Tagbanua kids.
We had lunch on our first day at Banol Beach, on the 2nd day at Malcapuya Island and on the third day at the Coral Garden near Culion Island. We feasted on crabs, fish, talong, okra, mangoes, squid and liempo. It was the kind of days wherein you can forget that you have a day job waiting for you back in the big city.
Coron is best explored when you're traveling with friends since the boat ride can be expensive so it's better to split the cost between four or more people. For a budget traveler like me, going to Coron has always been one of my more expensive trips. However, don't let the thought of splurging more dim your desire to visit Coron because it is very much worth it. I wouldn't have come back if it wasn't.
Of course, in a Paradise-like place, vultures of the worst kind will always find ways to abuse the environment just like what we saw at CYC beach. It now looks completely different from what it look like back in 2009. Our boatman Fredo told us–as the story goes–that one night, a shipload of armed men arrived and hauled off loads of white sands from the beach. The result was a desecrated beach with uprooted trees and white sands turned to light gray.
What happened to CYC beach must serve as a grim reminder that we should always be vigilant about any abuse against our environment. The recent news about the ship load of rare black corals and 80-100 year old sea turtles reduced to stuff turtle are already disheartening. These crimes against our natural resources should always be on the forefront of our minds for us so our future children can also enjoy these stunning places around us.
I still believe that the rest of Coron will stay beautiful as long we do not rest on our laurels. The price to pay of being indifferent can be costly. This experience gives me the resolve to find ways on how I could help in safeguarding these places I now considered as home away from home.
As the girls giggles and talks about their favorite movie, the pharmaceutical-world inspired "Love and Other Drugs", and their past relationships, I sat thinking about my own. I last went here the same man but in a different situation and now I'm back, a little improved or a bit screwed up depends on how one weigh things. Considering what happened in two years, I guess a lot has changed. I'm a bit wiser but still fascinated by Coron.
Traveling often gives you a different perspective to the point that it's not about what you see and experience but its also gathering awareness of what ills the world. That even in paradise, problems arises and because of this, confusion sets in. With the wrong kind of resolve or lack of awareness, each can forever remain at threat with outside interference, especially those at the hands of merciless greedy pirates who continuously wreck havoc at our natural resources.
As tourists or visitors or travelers or backpackers whatever you may want to call yourself. It starts with us from the little things of resisting the urge to etched your name on that rock or that tree branch to following the simple code of what to do and not to do when in the great outdoors. Coron, Palawan again has reminded me of what a beautiful place looks like. At the same time, it showed me its vulnerable side and the fact that it is under attack at any moment from those with irresponsible desires and greedy goals.
It was the last day of our Coron island hopping tour. The setting sun was starting to lit the sky with fiery red color. There I was standing at the port, besieged with worry. I sincerely hope we could maintain and safeguard places such as Coron. For we owe the future generation a chance for them to also enjoy a day under the sun and embrace a beautiful set of nature such as the ones existing in Coron today.
- Culion Museum and Archives
- Mad Attempt at a Decent Underwater Photography
- Imagining the Bloody Battles Fought at Fort Culion
- Malcapuya Island
- Kayangan Lake
- Chasing Beaches
- Maquinit Hot Springs
- Coron: Town and Country
- Bullets Over Busuanga