When I first began
traveling, I was drawn to the sheer visual spectacle of a destination—the more
picturesque, the better. I believed that dramatic landscapes alone could
capture the spirit of my journey, with each frame giving me a postcard-worthy
memento. But as I pursued the craft of travel writing more seriously, my
perspective evolved. I came to realize that a place is more than its scenery; I
discovered that a great deal of a destination’s soul rests in the stories of
its people. By putting more focus on the locals, I witnessed how their
traditions, heritage, and daily rhythms weave a richer narrative, thus
transforming every visit into a deeper, more meaningful experience that lingers
long after I leave.
The "Binanog" is a courtship dance of the Panay-Bukidnon that imitates the movements of a hawk.
While I’ll never
pass up the chance to walk barefoot into powdery sand on an island framed by
turquoise waters or savor a steaming cup of coffee atop a mountain with a
sweeping 360-degree view, I always look forward to immersing myself in local
communities, where genuine connections unfold. Conversations with locals reveal
not just their personal stories but also the deep-rooted history and culture of
a place. These encounters transform my travel experiences into something more
than sightseeing.
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| With Lucia Caballero, the widow of the late GAMABA awardee Federico Caballero |
I found myself with
that opportunity once more, joining members of the Tourism Promotions Board
(TPB) of the Philippines on a journey through Western Visayas. Our route
stretched from the coastal city of Sagay in Negros Occidental to the quiet
towns of Calinog and Barotac Viejo in Iloilo province. Along the way, the
landscapes shifted—mangrove forests gave way to rolling fields, and bustling seafood
markets led to quiet plazas.
Covering three
communities spanning the islands of Negros and Panay, with a ferry boat ride
from Bacolod City to Iloilo in between, we were introduced to the indigenous
communities of the Ata’s in Barangay Puey, Sagay City, the Panay-Bukidnon’s in
Calinog; and the Ati’s in Nagpana, Barotac Viejo, both in Iloilo Province.
The Panay-Bukidnon’s
Quest to Preserve their Culture
As
one of the earliest settlers who built communities in the mountains of Panay
Island, the Suludnon—also known as the Panay-Bukidnon, Pan-ayanon, or
Tumandok—have preserved a way of life that predates Spanish colonization. Not
to be mistaken for Bukidnon, the province; the
name Bukidnon in many Visayan languages translates to "from the
mountains."
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| The Panay-Bukidnon community members in Calinog showing off their traditional attire" |
Isolated from the
lowland Visayan communities of Capiz, Antique, and Iloilo, they remain one of
the few indigenous groups in the region to have retained their ancestral
traditions, spiritual beliefs, and oral epics. Their language, Iigbok (or
Ligbok) remains distinct, a testament to their cultural resilience. Known for
their intricate panubok embroidery, binanog courtship dance, and
sugidanon or epic chanting, the Panay-Bukidnon embody a living heritage passed
down through generations. As modernization reaches their ancestral lands, their
struggle to preserve their identity continues, making them a vital link to the
Philippines’ pre-colonial past.
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| The Panay-Bukidnon community in Calinog engages with visitors through cultural performance and learnings |
In the town of
Calinog located in the central part of Panay Island and an hour and a half away
from Iloilo City, we meet several members of the Panay-Bukidnon Community
especially the family of 2000 National Living Treasures or GAMABA (Manlilikha
sa Manlilikha ng Bayan) awardee Federico
Caballero (1935-2024).
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| The elderly members of the Panay-Bukidnon community diligently involves the younger generation in preserving their culture" |
Caballero received
the GAMABA for his commitment to safeguarding Panay’s oral heritage, especially
its ten epic narratives. Through his skilled chanting in extinct languages
related to Kinaray-a such as Ligbok, he ensured that his community’s history,
literature, and legends would endure for future generations.
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| The Panay-Bukidnon's Panubok embroidery features intricate embroidery of various patterns and designs |
After Caballero
died on August 17, 2024, his surviving wife, Lucia Caballero, herself a
cultural bearer who had been awarded the Unsung Woman Hero for her
contributions to championing the culture and heritage of the Panay-Bukidnon
Indigenous communities all over the island of Panay, became one of the most
senior members and heads of their community in Calinog.
Today, they invite
visitors to stay in homestay accommodations they established, offering a chance
to experience their culture through local cuisine, lectures on their
art—particularly embroidery—and live demonstrations of various traditional
performance arts.
There's also a
School of Living Traditions in Calinog where young Panay-Bukidnons learn their
olden art of epic chanting—most notably the Hinilawod epic
tale—alongside courtship and cultural dances, and the meticulous craft of panubok
embroidery, often created from sturdy nito vines.
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| Mang Kune and Nanay Modena, the last "binukot" in the island of Panay |
Prior to our trip
here in Calinog, I already have a previous encounter with the members of the
Panay-Bukidnon community in the province of Capiz. On a visit at the Capiz
Ecology Park and Cultural Village, I met an elderly couple, Mang Kune and Nanay
Modena. Mang Kune shared that his wife was the last known binukot in the
island of Panay.
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| Despite his young age, Renel Lavilla is eager to play his role as a cultural bearer and ambassador of his fellow Panay-Bukidnons |
Meaning "veiled" in Visayan language, a binukot involves a noblewoman who is kept in seclusion from childhood to the day she got married when she becomes known as a “nabukot”, to preserve her grace and mystique, elevating her status among suitors. This pre-colonial Visayan tradition meant Modena never left her home until her arranged marriage in her twenties.
However, over the
past few decades, this traditional practice has gradually become less
prevalent. "We sent our daughters to school," Mang Kune stated in
Kinaray-a when asked who among the females in their nine children became a binukot.
Celebrating Ata Day
with the Ata Community in Sagay City
The Ata people in
Negros Island, were previously known as a nomadic people who chose to live by
the river. Sagay City Tourism Officer Helen Javier Arguelles explains how the
once-nomadic Ata found a permanent home in the highlands of Sagay.
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| Nanay Simeona was all smiles welcoming us |
“After a
devastating flood displaced several Ata families, the late Governor Joseph G.
Marañon, then the municipal mayor, relocated them here,” Arguelles says. “In
1997, the local government secured a five-hectare lot for them, now known as
Purok Ata in Barangay Puey.”
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| They traditionally use leaves as serving plates. Guests love this because it is more sustainable |
From then on,
beginning on a tiny enclave of three households, the community grew and
attracted more community members to build their own homes in Purok Ata.
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| You can see some traditional shelters within their community to get an idea how they used to temporarily set-up shelters before |
Beyond having a
place to call their own, Arguelles notes, the Ata community now welcomes
visitors eager to learn about their history and traditions firsthand.
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| Some of the handmade bags produced by the community's Ata Indigenous Community Weaver Association |
Today, the Ata
community continue to thrive within a self-sustained village equipped with a
daycare, a clinic, and modest housing. Here, elders take on the role of
educators, ensuring that the Ata Youth—future stewards of their heritage—carry
forward their customs and beliefs.
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| The Ata community members demonstrating their way of bird calling called pispis |
Our visit couldn't
have been timelier as it coincided with a special occasion, the Ata Day, which
the community celebrate every last week of November. A troupe of cultural
performers welcomed us with the “Inagong,” a spirited courtship dance,
and captivated us with bird calls—an art they call “pispis”—before
sharing a feast of traditional fare.
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| Many of the women in the Ata Community here in Sagay engage in woven basket making |
Among Indigenous
groups in the Philippines, the Ata remain largely overlooked. But Ata Day
offers them a rare opportunity to share their culture, a quiet assertion of
identity in a rapidly changing world.
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| Part of the Ata Day celebration includes performing their traditional dances |
“When we conducted
a perception survey, most residents
appreciate their culture, however only 30% actively practice it, hence
celebrating Ata Day is all the more significant” Arguelles added. “If
unpreserved, unappreciated, and uncelebrated, their culture will die.”
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| One of the Ata Community leaders presides a welcome ceremony |
Spending an
afternoon among them offered more than just a brief encounter. It was an
invitation into a way of life rarely seen by outsiders. It was a quiet but
profound reminder that, even in a world mapped and documented, there are
cultures still waiting to be understood.
Stop and Smell the
Coffee of the Ati Community in Iloilo
On another visit to
Iloilo Province, while documenting the Philippines’ Tourism Promotions Board’s
community-based tourism projects, I saw firsthand how the Ati community in
Barotac Viejo has built self-sufficiency. At the heart of it is Balay Kape
Nagpana, a community-run enterprise where a thriving coffee farm has become a
hub for roasting exceptional coffee beans.
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| Some members of the Ati community performs a ceremonial dance to welcome guests. They believe this ward off bad spirits |
This Ati community
in Iloilo is one of several settlements spread across the islands of Panay,
Guimaras, and Negros. Both the Ata and the Ati trace their ancestry to the same
sub-groupings of other Negrito ethnic groups in the Philippines, including the
Aeta of Luzon, the Agta of Sierra Madre, the Batak of Palawan, and the Mamanwa
of Mindanao.
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| Fresh coffee beans ready to be grinded and roasted |
Balay Kape Nagpana
is a seed-to-cup coffee farm and café, operated by the Ati community in
Barangay Nagpana, Barotac Viejo, Iloilo, with support from the NGO organization
Taytay Sa Kauswagan (TSKI) and the Department of Science and Technology.
Here, Ati women
meticulously handpick and roast robusta beans, producing a rich, aromatic
blend. The farm also processes Kape Miro, named after the Asian palm civet, which
grow well in the surrounding forests and feeds on coffee cherries, wild berries
and other pulpy fruits.
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| Aside from the community's coffee farm and shop, they also trade handmade bags such as these |
During our visit
here before we tasted their coffee, which are grown and processed on site,
several Ati women greeted us with a welcome dance and a song about the history
of their community.
The need for more
#CultureTrips
By being able to
visit these three indigenous communities that spreads across the two islands of
Panay and Negros, a common thread became evident: a quiet resilience, and a
determination to safeguard heritage in a rapidly modernizing world. I
immediately found myself being in awe at how each community tell its own story
of preserving their culture and identity.
As travelers chase
stunning landscapes and postcard-perfect views, there’s something just as
rewarding in seeking out culture-driven experiences. By weaving these
communities into our journeys, we do more than just visit—we help create
opportunities for them to share their traditions, celebrate their identity, and
keep their heritage alive for generations to come.
This article first appeared on Esquire Philippines.
