As
the year 2024 arrived, there were still a few Philippine provinces I’ve yet to
visit: Apayao, Sulu, and Dinagat Islands. Out of the three, the latter is the
one I knew the least about. Ever since it gained independence from Surigao del
Norte and established itself as a separate province in 2006, information about
this island province has been scarce. However, there was one particular
parricide case that captivated the nation and also the one that first caught my
attention about the island in the early 2000s.
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| What an impressive view |
And
so, in the intervening years, the only thing I associated the province with was
its connection to Ruben Ecleo Jr., the prime suspect in the said parricide
case, and the religious organization he belonged to, the Philippine Benevolent
Missionaries Association Inc. (PBMA), which his father Ruben Ecleo Sr. founded
in 1965.
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| Exploring the island always leads to scenic roads |
However,
as more and more people I knew began sharing their stories of traveling to
Dinagat Islands, my curiosity about the province heightened. I began to
perceive the province through a completely new lens, a stark contrast to the
gruesome event that once hogged the headlines. Ruben Ecleo Jr.'s 2012
conviction for the tragic death of his wife, Alona Bacolod-Ecleo in 2002,
brought closure to the case for many. When Ecleo passed away due to natural
causes in 2021, the province underwent a significant transformation towards a
more positive outlook.
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| Even the port of Gibusong Island retains its crystal clear waters |
While
many Ecleo family members maintained key positions in the province's local
government because the action of one Ruben Jr. wasn’t seen as representative of
the family that has gained the loyalty of the residents, it also saw the
province carving out a new narrative that distanced itself from its
controversial recent past.
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| Strange province no more |
It
turns out, as I would later witness, experience, and learn on my trip to the
province, that behind the strangeness of the Dinagat Islands, there was a
captivating blend of history, natural wonders, and breathtaking landscapes. It
was a place that would both surprise and enchant me.
Dinagat
Islands during World War II
Unbeknownst
to me, and perhaps many others as well, the main Dinagat Island is a setting to
one of history's intriguing "what ifs." Had General Douglas Macarthur
chosen to disembark on the island on October 17, 1944, the province would have
become the backdrop for a significant moment in the country's history: the
landing of General Douglas MacArthur and the allied forces, which signaled the
start of the campaign to liberate the Philippines from Japanese occupation. As
we all know, the landing would happen on Palo, Leyte, on October 20, 1944.
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| The historical marker at Campintac Black Beach |
Three
days before that, however, on October 17, 1944, the advanced landing force,
consisting of Filipino and American forces, waded onto a stretch of beach
fronting the waters of Leyte Gulf in the town of Loreto known as
"Campintac Black Beach No. 2," named after its World War II call sign
"come intact."
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| Campintac Beach Resort |
Despite
the fact that General MacArthur's ship had docked on the beach, only a few
personnel, headed by officers Captain Robert Garrett and Colonel Henry Mucci
(the same officer who led the rescue operation in the Cabanatuan POW camp,
which was made into a Hollywood movie, The Great Raid), disembarked to make
contact with the locals and raise the Philippines and US flags.
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| Ghost Ship? |
The
Loreto landing was an important part of the Battle of Leyte towards the allied
forces' liberation of the Philippines from the Japanese, as it gave the
liberators strategic sea positions that concluded with the defeat of the
Japanese in the Battle of Surigao Strait.
Today, a 5-foot-tall memorial stands in the grounds of Campintac Beach Resort where we stayed for the night. The marker is engraved with a dedication honoring the landing on Loreto as an integral moment that helped open the passage of allied ships for the Battle of Leyte.
Gibusong
Quincentennial Historical Marker
Fascinatingly,
the marine-related historical events on Dinagat Islands extended beyond the
October 17, 1944, landing on Loreto. Centuries ago, a fleet of ships had the
privilege of sighting the province when the intrepid crew members of the
Magellan-Elcano expedition sailed near the shores of Gibusong Island, one of
the smaller islands that encircle Dinagat mainland.
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| The quincentennial historical maker placed on Gibusong Island |
The
Magellan-Elcano Expedition was a 16th-century Spanish expedition planned and
led by Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan. It began solely referred to as
the Magellan Expedition when it departed Spain in 1519 with the goal of
crossing the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean and opening a spice trading route with
present-day Indonesia.
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| Admiring the sculpture work of Jonas Roces and Francis Apiles |
The
expedition reached the Philippines after crossing the Pacific, making a first
landing on Homonhon, Samar, on March 16, 1521. The expedition would then make
another landing on the island of Limasawa in Leyte where the crew would spend a
few days before celebrating what is believed to be the first mass in the
Philippines on March 31, 1521.
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| Local kakanin |
As
we all know, the expedition suffered a terrible fate when, on April 27, 1521,
the crew encountered the men of Lapu-Lapu, a local chieftain, on the island of
Mactan in Cebu. The battle would leave Ferdinand Magellan dead.
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| Hallelujah, I finally came to Dinagat |
It
then became known as the Magellan-Elcano expedition after Spanish navigator
Juan Sebastian Elcano took the lead following Magellan's death and steered the
team's return to Spain on September 6, 1522, after totaling more than 60,000
kilometers or an almost three-year voyage to achieve the first circumnavigation
of Earth.
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| Where the grass is green and the waters blue |
This
historical marker on Gibusong (Hibusong) Island was one of 34 commissioned and
unveiled by the National Historical Commission of the Philippines between
October and March 2021 to commemorate the 500-year anniversary of
Magellan-Elcano's first circumnavigation of the world in 1521.
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| Grateful for even the brief glimpse to this beautiful province |
After
spotting Guiuan, Eastern Samar, and landing on Homonhon Island, Gibusong was
the fourth point of Magellan’s ships’ route. It is believed that the ships sliced
through the passage near the island around March 25, 1521.
The
Philippines was an important part of that first circumnavigation of the world,
as the expedition made numerous landings and sightings of land from March 16 to
October 28, 1521, sandwiching the Battle of Mactan before making a final pass
through Saranggani on October 28, 1521.
Sketches
from muralist Derrick Macutay, which reimagined the events of the voyage from
the local's point of view, served as the basis of the marble relief created by
sculptors Jonas Roces and Francis Apiles and constituted the designs of some of
the 34 quincentennial historical markers.
Blue
Lagoon
Since
we only have four days in the province, we filled up our second day with island
hop exploration. After a stop at the small port of Gibusong Island, where the
waters remain pristine and beckoned us to take a refreshing plunge, we set our
sights on Pangabangan Island. This petite islet is encircled by majestic karst
formations, with a captivating tidal pool nestled at its heart, known to the
locals as the Blue Lagoon.
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| Looks like a heart to me |
Upon
arrival, I was instantly captivated by the breathtaking setting, reminiscent of
the stunning landscapes found in Coron and El Nido, Palawan. Nevertheless, even
though it shares similarities with the two aforementioned places, there is a
distinct sense of uniqueness to this particular blue lagoon.
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| Local families love to have picnic by the lagoon every weekend |
It
immediately dawned on me that this is the kind of place I imagine Dinagat
province to be. Places that are mesmerizing and unfiltered, serene yet
endearing, quiet and laid-back.
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| The only thing missing is Brooke Shields |
After
spending nearly an hour perfecting my freestyle strokes in the shallower areas
of the lagoon, I ascended to the makeshift view deck to fully appreciate the
breathtaking scenery and relish in the moment. Our stay here concluded with a
hearty lunch feast and more conversation about Dinagat's history, as shared by
one of the Dinagat Islands Tourism and Cultural Office staff.
Pygmy
Forest
Continuing
our land and sea journey in the province, we encountered a unique natural
feature at the summit of Mount Redondo in Loreto: a forest that is unparalleled
in the Philippines, with the exception of Mount Hamiguitan in Davao Oriental.
Primarily
composed of bonsai trees, this pygmy forest, also referred to as elfin and
dwarf forest, spans hundreds of hectares and boasts huge ecotourism potential.
As you make your way through a rough mining road aboard a 4x4 truck, you will
encounter a huge open-pit mining site—a relic from a Chromite mining firm that
ceased operations some thirty years ago.
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| Dwarf forest as far as the eyes can see |
This
road bears witness to the abuse the mountain has endured since the province's
designation as a mineral reserve area open for mining in 1939. Although some
nickel mining remains in operation in the province, the now defunct mining
areas surrounding the pygmy forest could serve as another eco-tourism
destination where visitors can learn more about mining's ecological effects.
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| Hoping to be declared as protected area soon |
The
hundreds of hectares of bonsai forest, which have already been designated as
Key Biodiversity Areas (KBAs), are up for designation as a protected area and a
tourism destination according to a legislation that has been introduced and is
currently awaiting passage in the Congress.
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| We were dwarfed by the wide stretch of the pygmy forest |
Arriving
just moments before sunset, the scenery became even more astounding as the last
rays of sunlight filtered through the vibrant foliage of the small trees. We
stood there, taking in the incredible sight of the vast sea of clouds and the
seemingly endless stretch of bonsai trees.
Barely
Leafing Through the Pages of Dinagat
In
just a few days, I was able to transform the unfamiliarity of Dinagat province
into lasting memories of the place. Having experienced exploring a whirlwind of
intriguing attractions, and friendly encounters with the locals, it is clear
that my exploration of the islands of Dinagat merely skimmed the surface of
what the islands of Dinagat can offer to travelers.
As
I was exchanging messages with my friend Ariadne, whose father hails from San
Jose, the provincial capital, she listed more than twenty places to visit. In
our brief four-day trip to Dinagat, we only managed to see around 5-6, thus
making our visit just a glimpse into the province.
Call
it a fleeting look or a quick peek, I see Dinagat as a strange province no more.
With the veil of peculiarity now
lifted, it seems highly likely that I will be making another visit to the islands of Dinagat in the near future.
Guess what? A few weeks after this, I found myself going back to Dinagat Islands. You can read PART TWO here.
How
to Get to Dinagat Islands
If
you are traveling by air, take note that the nearest airports are Surigao
Airport (via Cebgo from Cebu and Manila) and Butuan Airport (via Cebgo from
Cebu and Cebu Pacific and Philippine Airlines from Manila and Cebu). Wherever
you arrive, you will have to make your way to Surigao Port in order to reach
Dinagat Islands.
Outside
Butuan airport, there’s a convenient van transportation option available to
Surigao City. Travel time typically ranges from 2 to 3 hours. To reach Surigao
Port from Surigao City or Surigao airport, you can hop on a tricycle for a half
hour trip.
From Surigao City port, you can take a ferry to San Jose Port in Dinagat Islands. The duration of this sea journey is one hour. Dinagat is serviced by a variety of ferry and shipping lines from Surigao City throughout the day.
This article first appeared on Esquire Philippines.
