From where I sit on a
balcony of a hilltop hotel, I can see the many monuments built during the era
of the Bundelas— a Rajput clan of Central India who lorded
over this part of Madhya Pradesh beginning in the 16th century. In that moment
I savored the solemnity of finding myself some quiet time in-between our busy
media tour. Trailing my eyes from the top of an opposite hill into the rows of
houses below, I became perplexed at the sight of jam-packed edifices below.
As if sensing my confusion,
our tour guide pointed to me "look
at the center, and you will see Chaubisi Jain Temple. It has more than 20
shikharas (towers) and over there is the Chanderi Fort". Following the
direction of his finger, I got the idea of how compressed the town of Chanderi
was fashioned through centuries of blossoming trade, religion and culture.
Enveloped by the forested ridges
of the Vindhya mountain range and dotted with glass-like lakes, it is easy to
see why this town became the site of a flourishing economy dating back to the
11th century. The population of Chanderi peaked to hundreds of
thousands when a branch of the Silk Route passed through it.
During the British rule in the
19th century, Chanderi was cut off from the Silk Road highway—consequently
dwindling trade activities—and eventually, slashing its population to a half.
Despite losing much of its past economic luster, Chanderi remains a 'major center of Jain culture' and one
of the most historic towns in India.
Center
of Jain Culture
In a nation teeming of
birthplaces of a variety of spiritual disciplines, I embraced the opportunity
of learning a new one: Jainism. Older than Buddhism and similar in a lot of
ways with Hinduism—Jainism also conveys the principles of reincarnation,
peace, non-attachment to material things and good karma.
Despite the many likenesses with Hinduism, Jainism practitioners only comprises less than 2% of India’s population. Beautiful remains of Jain temples can be found all over Chanderi; one of which is the 45-feet tall rock cut portrait of Rishabhanatha (who in Jainism belief—is the teacher of rebirth and death and propagator of the Dharma).
Apart from learning more
about the religion of Jainism, we also visited a few landmarks around Chanderi
to learn more about its captivating history.
Splendid
Architecture Abounds
As we go about our
exploration of Chanderi, we laid eyes on some of the town’s finest
architectural marvel from centuries past; Koshak Mahal, Badal Mahal Gate, Jama
Masjid and Chanderi Fort. Even in ruins, the
Mandu-style architecture of Koshak Mahal remains a stunner. It's derelict
condition only highlighted the beautiful arches more, as it leads your eyes to
a maze of fascinating patterns.
 |
| unfinished but still remarkable Koshak Mahal |
Originally envisioned as a
victory monument to rise 7-storeys high by Mahmud Khilji—a 15th-century sultan
of the Indian Kingdom of Malwa Sultanate (present
day Madhya Pradesh state), but only two of the three-storeys were constructed
during his lifetime. Despite its unfinished state, it remains as an architectural
eye-candy to this day.
 |
| The Badal Mahal Gate is one of the most prominent monuments in Chanderi |
The 13th century Jama Masjid
is Chanderi's biggest mosque highlighted by an open court leading to the square
hall that can sit 2,000 devotees. Exhibiting a hint of Mughal architecture, and
a unique set of intricately designed pillars, the mosque stands in perfect
cohort to the 15th century Badal Mahal Gate—a 100-foot historic gate
built by Sultan Shah Khilji, standing across the street.
The
Battle-Shaped Chanderi Fort
Built upon the orders of
Pratihara, Kirti Pal in the 11th century, Chanderi Fort has since
saw numerous renovations in the succeeding centuries, as it fell into the hands
of one conqueror from one kingdom to another.
 |
| Chanderi Fort, where many bloody battles were fough |
The walls that remain
heavily fortified today was the result of buttresses reinforcement constructed
by the men of Mughal Emperor Babur after conquering Chanderi in the early 16th
century. One chilling spot inside the fort is called the 'Johar Smarak'. This
was where dozens of Rajput women chose self-immolation over capture, after one
of Rajput's most decorated warrior Medini Rai, died against the army of Mughal
Emperor Babun.
After capturing Chanderi in
1586, the victorious Bundela Rajputs constructed the palace inside the fort. Because
Chanderi was once an integral part of a trading route leading to the ancient
port of Gujarat, it became a hotly-contested location between the Mughal and
Hindu Rajput rulers.
 |
| The architecturally gifted Jama Masjid |
After hearing about these
enthralling facts about Chanderi Fort, I hurriedly separated myself from our
group to explore the rest of the place. Compared to the other forts I visited
in India, Chanderi Fort appear a lot smaller. But what they said about how
small things create a broader impact in history? —I saw this place as a fitting
representation of that adage.
Living up to my belief that
India is a nation swarming with locations full of engrossing tales, the little
old-world town of Chanderi dishes a spectacular set of visual feasts, historic
anecdotes and charming vibe that shall certainly add up to one’s wanderlust attraction
to India.
