I remember sitting inside
a cramped van negotiating the snaking countryside road of Laos, feeling very
excited as I reached my next destination. My high anticipation stems
from the desire to unlock the truth behind the prevailing word-of-mouth on
Luang Prabang. “The place is so laid-back,” fellow travelers would often rave.
As simple as it may be, that description is music to my ears. Throw in the heritage
structures and rich culture of the city, my giddiness got the best of me for
the rest of my ride.
The
allure of the historic district
Not to be disappointed,
the moment the van dropped me off at the Historic Center of Luang Prabang, I
instantly felt the old-world vibe. The imposing grandeur of the Royal Palace
promptly satisfied my fondness for tasteful architecture. As the sky turns red
and on the verge of giving way to darkness, the night market stalls began
popping up one by one, gradually lighting up the streets. Soon, the crowd
thickens but I didn’t mind, as I gleefully continue my exploration on foot.
Like a kid in a candy
store, I stared with wide-eyed in wonder at the surrounding shops, restaurants
and cafés—all housed inside the colonial-era establishments. Channel out the
patrons busy fidgeting on their mobile phones, and you’d feel like you’re back
in the prewar decades.
Monasteries, palaces,
temples (or wats) and colonial houses abound in the pedestrian-friendly
district of Luang Prabang. You could very well explore the whole place in a
day, but who would want to sightsee in such haste? Definitely, not me. The
charming vibe of Luang Prabang beckons, so I ended up staying for several days.
Witnessing
the morning alms
On the first morning, I
woke up early to witness the morning practice of the monks asking for alms.
Also known as the “Tak Bat,” this daily ritual has become an important part of
Luang Prabang’s culture. However, it has generated controversy in recent years,
when tourists began participating and giving away nonedible items such as
money. With respect to their culture, it is more appropriate to let the locals
and devotees of Buddhism be the donor and for tourists to politely keep a safe
distance from the monks.
Still, the experience of
witnessing this ritual added a new layer to my spirituality, as I understand
how the monks envisioned it to be—a practice in humility and detachment from
earthly possessions. This humbling sight instills generosity and kindness that
can never go wrong.
Wat-hopping
on two wheels
The next couple of days, I
did my exploration by riding a rented bicycle and went on a wat-hopping tour.
Wat is the most religiously apt word to describe a Buddhist and Hindu temple in
Laos, Thailand and Cambodia. The word wat was derived from the ancient Indian
language of Sanskrit, which means “enclosure.”
With more than a dozen
centuries-old temples built around Luang Prabang, you will never run out of
ways to observe how Laotian people and the monks practice their faith. I
started off at the Wat Xieng Thong, a 16th-century temple built by King
Setthathirat.
Inside its walls, one can find intricate artworks depicting
Laotian life, culture and religious practices. It is one of the most important
landmarks in Laos because it was here where some of the earliest Laotian kings
were crowned.
I spent the rest of the
day pedaling to cover other temples until nighttime took me near the Royal
Palace, where the adjacent Wat Mai monastery echoed the chants of the monks who
were in prayers.
Food-tripping
and quaint riverside cafés
During daytime, I would
take a break from my cycling explorations by hanging out at the many quaint
cafés all over town. Colorful shops, restaurants and coffee shops housed in
colonial buildings added a new layer of appeal. I would sit down and order a
Laotian latte and just stare at passersby. Nearing sunset, I would relocate to
a riverside joint for an ice-cold Laotian beer while witnessing the sunset over
the mighty Mekong River.
“Duterte, Duterte!” a
waiter at a riverside diner playfully chanted after I answered his question,
“Where you from?” “Yes, he is our President,” I responded and then I took a
moment to stop myself from sharing my unsolicited political opinion.
The waiter proceeded to
point out a standee of former US President Barack Obama drinking from a
coconut. “That picture was taken here. Obama drank coconut here,” he proudly
told me.
It as it were, I was just checking out the menu and wasn’t decided yet
where to eat, but the Obama connection convinced me to book a seat. I ended up
having an unforgettable early dinner with a stunning view of the golden dusk
sky reigning over the quiet waters of the Mekong.
Standing
on top of Mount Phousi
I capped my first visit to
Luang Prabang by taking a short hike on top of Mount Phousi, a 100-meter high
hill planted at the center of the historic district. As the clock ticks nearing
my departure time, I spent a whole hour just staring at the lush surrounding
countryside and trailing my sight to the adjoining water lines of the Mekong
River and the Nam Khan River.
Looking at the charms of
the old town from above, I thanked the heavens for bringing me to yet another
destination teeming with history and colorful culture. As a flock of doves flew
over me and into the sky, I saw them leave a track of shadows over the greens
until they all disappeared into the blue. About the same time, I felt all my
worldly worries vanishing and was quickly replaced by a sense of tranquility. I
knew then, Luang Prabang had me lured and secured in its enthralling embrace.
This article first
appeared in the September 16, 2018 issue of BusinessMirror
