Everyone was silent as our
speedboat slices through the calm waters of Celebes Sea. Under the brilliance
of a full sun and unmindful of the burnt sense of my golden skin, I savored the
eerie stillness cruising over a body of water once known as the most dangerous
backwater in the world. What used to be a violent playground of pirate ships
committing sea robbery and during the worst of times; the sailing route of Abu
Sayyaf militants preying on civilians to kidnap—the waters approaching
Panampangan Island is now a picture of unruffled nature haven.
Here’s where the story (never) ends
As these seas of Sulu and
Celebes word out its intertwining tales of volatility and journey to modern day
tranquility, a previously overlooked character takes the stage: Panampangan
Island.
Panampangan Island is believed
to have the longest sandbar in the Philippines. According to environment and
mapping advocate Ervin Malicdem “during
low tide, the sandbar extends far out to about three kilometers to its
neighboring islet, Basibuli; also in the same reef.”
More than a thousand steps
separates its end-to-end tip. I must have tallied a couple of hundreds, enough
to fully absorb myself to the fascinating nature that surrounded us that day.
Glistening sun or not, nothing stopped me from listening to the whistling of
the waves, as I felt the scorching sand granules of Panampangan Island below my bare feet.
Other than the mostly
coconut trees and random shrubs, the island is almost devoid of permanent
structure. Half a kilometer away, rows of stilt houses of the Badjaos erected
on the shallow part of the Celebes Sea can be seen. As I walked towards where
the edge of the sandbar disappears into the deep, I encountered one of the residents.
He gave me a nod while speaking something in Tausug language. I can only smile
at him in return.
For a few hours, we had a
wonderful downtime just lounging around the island. A soothing dip into the water
and a feast of a lunch concluded our Panampangan trip.
I would have preferred to
stay longer but those few hours were enough to give me a reason to debunk the
myth of traveling to this part of the Philippines, as a death wish. As the
story Panampangan Island goes on, I would never forget the day I listened to it
telling me tales filled with serene feels and cloistered ambiance.
As I felt the sole of my
feet started to blister from the heat – so does the back of my neck. I put on
my shirt and wore my slippers back. And on my one last walk, I set down my camera
and took a self-portrait—of me jumping for joy against the fantastic background
of Panampangan Island.
Traveling to Tawi-Tawi, Is it Safe?
The province of Tawi-Tawi
remains an enigma for most travelers. A tug of war of perception always plays
in the mind of people whenever they hear about this place. On the other side of
the spectrum; are the reports of brazen kidnappings and insurgency battles with
terror groups and on the other side; the cultural and nature wonders made more
appealing by the generally friendly nature of the locals.
If one would believe
sensationalized media reports, it would be easy to brand this province as a
high security risk. However, if one would actually travel to the province and
experience the real situation, a totally different insight will arouse. Look no
further than Brillante Mendoza’s film Thy Womb, or read some of the
travel narratives written by many Filipino travel bloggers who have explored
this province. By being exposed to these other sources it becomes easy to erase
the preconceived notion that Tawi-Tawi is a war-torn place.
For now, tourists are
encouraged to register at the Tawi-tawi's Provincial Tourism Office in order to
be guided properly upon arriving at the island. For travelers coming from
Zamboanga City, iTravel Tourist Lane is the most highly recommended tour
company.
iTravel Tourist Lane
Mayor Jaldon St., Canelar,
Zamboanga City
+63 62 991 1174
