Seven hours after leaving
the city of Bangkok at the stroke of midnight, I found myself on the main
highway of Old Sukhothai – under a drizzly sky. With a throbbing head and the effects of intermittent sleep, I located my hostel, which, to my surprise, is nestled within a boutique resort complex. “Our Dorm of Happiness – as we call it, is located on the second floor.
Come follow me” the receptionist told me. She then directed m to my bunk bed inside one of the rooms at the old cream colored wooden house fronted by a
picturesque courtyard.
I quickly crashed on my bed feeling the soft and comfy satin sheets and entertained the idea of having a long nap to make up for lost sleep. However, the lure of the olden city of Sukhothai summoned. Instead of surrendering into dream land, I hurriedly went down and rented a bicycle.
Sukhothai Historical Park
The ancient city of
Sukhothai was the first capital of the Siam Kingdom founded by King
Ramkhamhaeng during the 13th century. Much smaller than Ayutthaya – one
of the succeeding Siam capital established in the 14th century, it
has a more concentrated set of temples and monuments ruins now all located inside
the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sukhothai Historical Park.
The old city walls covers
approximately 70 square kilometers and is where an impressive list of ancient
structure ruins numbering to 193 can be found. Easily toured by foot or by
riding a bicycle, I will spend a total of five days just cycling and walking
around this historic park teeming with beautiful reminders of the bygone years
of the Siam Kingdom.
Dawn of Happiness
The Siam Kingdom that thrived
during the foundation of Sukhothai coincided with what many historians call as
the Golden Age of Thai Civilization,
thus adding to the historical significance of this ancient city.
Sukhothai literally
translates to Dawn of Happiness, and
it couldn’t have been more fitting describing a place conveying a laid-back vibe
and bounded by abundance set of nature besieged with trees, rolling hills and meandering
lakes and ponds. I find the setting mirroring many charming countryside I’ve
been to before – only swarming with remarkable ancient relics.
The historical park can be
adequately explored in a day or two, but since I decided to extend my stay to
five days, I was able to fully enjoy every bit of my exploration.
I spent my first sunset sitting on the stairs of the enormous remains of Wat Mahathat, one of Sukhothai's most stunning temples. The golden hour glistened on every piece of its towering columns as it led my gaze to its lotus bud-shaped main stupa. I recall experiencing a sense of spiritual knowledge and serenity of mind as the flaming red sky gradually faded to darkness. As my first night in Sukhothai draws to a close, I look forward to waking up to a few more sunrises in the coming days.
A Reflective Journey
There is something about visiting ancient towns that usually puts me in a reflective mood. Sukhothai had the similar impression on me the moment I stepped upon its storied grounds. A culminating moment of reflection transpired on my last day at
Sukhothai. After spending the morning at Wat si Chum – a 14th
century pillared outdoor hall called Mandapa, where a seated 15 meter statue of
a Buddha is enclosed inside a hall ruin, I made another round to visit the other
temple and palaces ruins.
One by one; Wat Saphan Hin,
Wat Pa Mamuang, Wat Chana Songkhram, Wat Asokaram, Wat Phra Phai Luang and a
seemingly endless other Wats, I stared at each with complete awe and gratitude.
Overjoyed at having the opportunity of laying eyes on structures that has
witnessed the birth of the Siam culture and the flourishing of the Buddhist
faith.
Whether I was lost in wonder admiring all these surviving vestiges of the glorious Siam Kingdom era or blissfully immersed in quiet contemplation staring at the silver lake near Wat Traphang Ngoen monastery, I always found a spot where I enjoyed silent moments polishing my Zen state of mind throughout my five days.
“Old
Age is no cause for regret, regret that one is old, having lived in vain” reads
one of the signs I saw at one of the temples in Sukhothai. I recited these
words as I went on a few more cycle laps around the historical park. In the
midst of feeling the wind and smelling the trees and viewing the sky’s
reflection on one of the many glass like ponds, I finally concluded my
meditative journey.
For I felt safe knowing that I am not living my life in vain, but rather - in a way that I would not regret anything when I reach my twilight years. Because there is a lovely way of attaining old age. All we need to do is protect what is essential and discard what we can live without. Much like how these magnificent Sukhothai remains managed to endure and be bearers of historical knowledge and spiritual enlightenment after many years.
