Believed to have originated even before the arrival of
the Spaniards, the Guling-Guling Festival morphed into a religious practice in
the 16th century, when the Spanish friars attached it with the celebration of
the Lenten season. Believed to have originated even before the arrival of
the Spaniards, the Guling-Guling Festival morphed into a religious practice in
the 16th century, when the Spanish friars attached it with the celebration of
the Lenten season. Happening a day before Ash Wednesday, guling, the
Ilocano word “to smear,” comes to play, when the town mayor would smudge a
white cross, made from damp and white rice flour, on to a person’s forehead to
indicate one’s pureness. The townsfolk believe that this ritual washes away
their sins.
Living relic of Paoay
“Guling-Guling is a living relic of Paoay’s history
starting from the pre-Hispanic colonial period. As a fat Tuesday celebration
during Holy Tuesday, it is a deeply rooted pagan tradition that took new form
as a Christian rite; a part of the religious transformations under the Spanish
colonial rule. The fact that it centers on dudol, a Muslim food, only suggests
that there is harmony of faith and beliefs in a town of more than 300 years,
and we have always been proud of that" explains Bernard Joseph Esposo
Guerrero, the cultural researcher, writer and tourism officer of Paoay.
“This year we brought culture closer to the kids. This
can be seen in the flash mob presented by the grade schoolers and the youth
festival that gave opportunities for budding talents to showcase what they
have. As part of the local government’s initiative to popularize the
celebration, we added an open category so that contingents from other towns can
compete,” Guerrero adds.
A week-long revelry
I arrived at the town of Paoay just as the sun was
rising. Almost beat up from an overnight bus trip, I alighted from a tricycle
and was immediately drawn to the gleam of the sun, whose rays are kissing the
outer walls and the buttresses of Paoay church. The scene appeared surreal and
instantly summoned a throwback feel to olden times—without the need to stretch
my imagination, as the nearby heritage houses also brought forth a similar
feeling.
I have been in various festivals all over the country,
but none similar to the atmosphere the town of Paoay brings. A compact locale
enclosed by pockets of historical structures and even newly dug century-old
bridges—all paints a place almost removed from the rapidity of modernity.
I spent my first afternoon walking around the town and
noticed many young students partaking in the final rehearsal for the festival’s
grand finale. Adorned with colorful costumes, I watched them as they danced and
strutted their graceful movements, while the younger children played gleefully
on the lawn-covered grounds fronting the church of Paoay. One promptly senses
the festival vibe rising.
The ‘Dudol’ cook-off
Among the many interesting side shows to the
Guling-Guling Festival is the “Dudol” (dodol) cook-off held on a piece of farm
that sits adjacent to a small pond near the highway. Known as a traditional
Ilocano rice cake, it is also popular in Indonesia, Malaysia, Sri Lanka and
Southern India. The dudol is believed to have reached Paoay through the Malay
and Indian settlements that thrived on the coastal towns of Ilocos Sur and
Norte even before the arrival of the Spaniards.
It is made from bel-laay (rice flour), sugarcane juice,
coconut milk and aniseed (anise). Cooking this delicacy requires patience in
stirring the ingredients over a small fire and heaps of creativity to make a
serving of dudol look distinctive. Fortunately, for us travel writers, some
locals invited us to become part of the judging committee and was given the
first dibs in tasting at least five varieties of dudol.
The bucolic scene at the farm coupled by the blowing
wind can almost lull one into an afternoon siesta. The prevailing mood of that
moment made me escalate my appreciation, to the type of provincial ambiance
reigning not far away from the heritage filled streets of Paoay.
Winding-up the Guling-Guling Festival
The Guling-Guling Festival is celebrated every year
during the same day as the famed Mardi Gras—a Christian and cultural festivity
celebrated in many countries. Mardi Gras is French term for “Fat Tuesday” and
mirrors the traditional practice of indulging in savoring sumptuous foods and
merrymaking before the ritual of fasting during the Lenten season that takes
place the next day, Ash Wednesday.
Upon waking up, I certainly felt the lingering air around
Paoay becoming more celebratory, as I spotted scores of local women donning the
traditional clothes of pandiling and kimono—all of which were carefully
handwoven abel cloth. The art of abel hand weaving in Ilocos is well-known
and is considered as part of the province’s rich artistic heritage. Colorful
costumes made of abel would take center stage later under the moonlit night, as
the contingents from various towns perform in front of the splendid facade of
Paoay Church.
Later in the afternoon, the street parade kicked off
with well-choreographed dances participated by both men and women of all ages.
The women came adorned with vibrant abel woven kimono, while the men sported a
dashing set of kamisa de Chino.
I watched the whole spectacle from the sidewalk among a
thick but orderly crowd. I enjoyed a clear view of the passing performers while
I took pictures in between downing shots of basi—a sugarcane wine that was
being passed around by a group of socializing festival-goers beside me.
The climaxing event—where the contingents took turns in
performing various folk dances in front of the cheering spectators—against the
beautifully illuminated portico of Paoay church, raised the festival’s
merriment level into notches higher.
As midnight struck, the Guling-Guling Festival came to
an end. Along with its conclusion, the loud declarations of exuberance and
other fun reverberations became silent. The Paoay church and itsglowing
luminous colors—once again witnessed a whole town celebrate another edition of
the Guling-Guling Festival. Visiting Paoay for the second time, I have no idea
such festival is being celebrated here. After my first Guling-Guling Festival,
it is safe to assume that I will definitely sign up and experience it again
next year.
