Hiking with the Hill People in the Scenic Sapa Region | Vietnam

December 29, 2014

Tired and cold from the previous night's hike from the city center to our homestay located in a village deep in the hillside of Sapa, I exulted at the sight of sunlight creeping into our spacious second-floor room. That meant the temperature was hovering near ten degrees compared to the almost two or negative two degrees that had chilled us the night before when I lay shaking even under a thick blanket.

Where to Stay in Vigan: The Heritage House of Villa Angela

December 25, 2014

It was still dark when we arrived at the front gates of Villa Angela where fortunately, the caretaker was waiting for us already. She opened the gates and let us enter a long driveway flanked by a spacious garden leading to a staircase going to the upper level of the house. Stepping on creaking wooden floors we were ushered inside our room furnished with two double beds and a lone single bed. Exhausted from our long bus trip, we dozed off in no time. At that moment, we were still unaware of the rustic charm of Villa Angela, whose historic walls we just walked by under the mask of darkness.

Villa Angela

A Cyclo Ride Around Hanoi | Vietnam

December 19, 2014

During my first visit to Hanoi the year prior, I was able to ride its famous rickshaw, or "cyclo" as they called it there, on a brief pedal from the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum back to the Old Quarters. Other than that, I was not able to hop on it and pass through the busier parts of the city, as I opted to spend most of my time moving and dodging motorcycles on foot.

A Few Good Days at Railay (Rai Leh) Beach

December 10, 2014

The vibe and the scenery surrounding Railay reminded me of the many beautiful islands in the Philippines, but with Thai food and more tourists. Shrugging the resemblance aside as a no-biggie, I felt excited about being there. The fact that I was then one step closer to visiting Maya Bay—a majestic dot on that planet which had become a fascination of mine since I first watched the Danny Boyle film (based on Alex Garland's novel) that all backpackers knew well about—made me consider Rai Leh a perfect pit stop.

A Mid-day Meander at B.B.D. Bagh Kolkata, India

December 05, 2014
Explore B.B.D. Bagh in Kolkata, India—formerly known as Dalhousie Square. Discover the compelling history of its revolutionary freedom fighters, masterful British colonial architecture, and the vibrant, nostalgic rhythm of its chaotic streets.
Kolkata / Heritage / India

A Mid-day Meander at B.B.D. Bagh Kolkata, India

By Marky Ramone Go • December 2014

On December 8, 1930, three young Bengali activists—Benoy, Badal, and Dinesh—cloaked in European clothing, entered the Writer's Building in the former Dalhousie Square and assassinated the Inspector General of Prisons, N.S. Simpson. Though this incident was just a tiny speck in the storied history of this central district of Kolkata, it proved significant enough to create a ripple effect that enhanced the Bengali’s role in the collective fight for Indian independence. This is the reason why the place is now known as B.B.D. Bagh—in honor of the three freedom fighters who died that fateful day.

The grand heritage architectures around B.B.D. Bagh in Kolkata
The imposing colonial heritage structures outlining the historic square of B.B.D. Bagh.

A Legacy of Defiance and Architecture

Historic colonial buildings depicting the best of British architecture are wonderfully maintained and are in full display in this square littered with street activities and rambling foot movements. The aforementioned Writer's Building, the Royal Exchange, Lal Dighi, St. Andrew's Church, The General Post Office, and Telephone Bhawan are just some of the must-see structures that would entail you to post it on your Instagram and caption it with #greatArchitecture.

The architectural majesty of British era structures in Kolkata
Stately towers and preservation efforts showcasing the deep historical identity of the district.

On a sunny but cool morning during our first official day in India, Aileen and I wandered aimlessly at the chaotic streets of Kolkata, often finding charming nooks and crannies here and there to our delight. A short cab ride later took us to B.B.D. Bagh, which reminded me of the similar-looking colonial-dotted streets of downtown Yangon.

A glimpse of daily urban lifestyle against old architecture
Towering old structure facades standing over the continuous pulse of the city's modern workforce.

Decade-Old Throwbacks and Living History

Crossing the streets while avoiding the iconic old-model yellow taxi cabs of Kolkata almost instantly brought me fifty years back. The whole district screams of a decades-old throwback, inhabited during the day by a massive workforce that congregates to work in the many government and private company offices, all armed with modern gadgets and technology-savvy minds.

The iconic classic yellow ambassador taxis navigating Kolkata streets
Taking a peek at the outside world

The rest are street food vendors, ear-cleaning touts, shoe-cleaning touts, gold and silver touts, and all types of traders who will try their darndest to bother you—but once you politely shoo them away, they will give you a sincere smile in return.

Pedestrians and vibrant street vendors lining the sidewalks of B.B.D. Bagh
The dynamic, sensory-rich tapestry of everyday life unfolding on the historic pavements.

Despite the swarming activities that may appear revolting to someone who grew up in a highly developed and less populous European city, I find B.B.D. Bagh more reserved than the other parts of Kolkata that we explored. I guess coming from Manila there aren't many contrasts—except during the night when we passed by B.B.D. again towards Howrah Bridge. I swear I have never witnessed such a massive exodus of commuters before, who like us, were also headed to the Howrah train station.

The bustling movement of public transit and commuters
Vintage streetcars and public buses weaving through the timeless colonial corridor.

The Rhythms of Kolkata

We regretted passing up on scores of street food stalls, because when we ended up on another street we could not locate a single dining place. We asked the locals who pointed us in different directions until we managed to find one lone restaurant beside another old building.

A peaceful dining moment amidst the travel fatigue
Where I should belong

While waiting for our food, Aileen fell asleep for a few minutes while sitting down. Having slept at the airport the previous night, I felt completely exhausted. Maybe this is how Kolkata crept up on me. It absorbed all my senses into a state of lull; while it pleased them with new discoveries and fascinating firsthand observations of an entirely new culture, it beat me to the point I apathetically muttered to myself, "This is just our first day."

Finally, when the food arrived, I awoke from a half-slumber and so did Aileen, and we were greeted by a jovial server. I realized I should never fear nor surrender to the somnolent nature of continuous travel. This is India, Kolkata—the people here, the history teeming here, the culture oh so colorful here, the delicious food—there are so many wonderful things to experience. Benoy Basu, Badal Gupta, and Dinesh Gupta knew that very well. To the point of giving their lives so their fellow Bengalis could appreciate all of these in total freedom.

Stilt Fishing in Unawatuna | Sri Lanka

December 03, 2014

I realized we were outside of Galle already when the scenery shifted to azure seas and unending white sands. I resisted telling my guide Sandrew to pull over on the side of the road so I could combat the strong waves battering the shore. I saw a couple of surfers high-five each other from afar, and after another kilometer, a Sri Lankan couple gazing at the beautiful formation of whitecaps caught my attention. The wind was incessant, attached with a yawning effect on me—on any other day, I would prefer to just doze off while listening to the thunderous rolling of the waves. But unfortunately, not this day.

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